Claudia's Guide to Mysore, India

Traditional delish food

Ever since my first trip to Mysore to study at the Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute back in 2008, I wanted to have a comprehensive list of information, as in: when to go, how to prepare, what to pack, places to stay, where to eat, etc. I wanted it so much that I created one.

I am aware there are LOTS of other places,  sight seeings, things to do, etc.  Lots of you guys have come to me with other interesting things to add, and I am grateful as it benefits us all.

If you find something that you think would help others let me know and I will add with a link to your blog if you have one.


Here are some things to consider before coming:
When to register and when to go
9 tips to travel safe,
A suggested packing list
Estimated cost break-down for the first month.
How to avoid jet lag. Sort of, works for some, not for others, but worth the read.

Saraswathi's Shala
As of 2012 the main shala was so full that students were split and Saraswathi was teaching in her own studio from 4:30 to 9:00.  Here is directions to her shala (a photo essay on how to get there from the main studio to her place).

NEWS: Sharath is building a home for his family down the road and the whole house that now hosts the shala will be used as a yoga shala, with library, teaching rooms etc. great news, thank you Martina and Jen for letting me know.  The timeline is 18 months, so... around July of 2012?  sounds like a good time to me.

Sharath's new home, in construction as of Jan 2012

Yoga

Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute, make sure to register early as it fills up quickly.

Also, when you come and are ready to register bring a passport picture and photocopy of your passport page and visa page.  Matter of fact, take many copies with you around as you may need it for your landlord, and to get a sim card for your "unblocked" phone.

One good thing to know about the shala is that it has "shala time", read why in this post, so always think that they are 15 minutes ahead, and for whatever time they tell you get there early.

Note about Addresses: How do you find these places you may wonder, if there is no clear address for most of them.  To that I will say this: Mysore is a different world. Here is how you get anywhere a) find a rickshaw driver and ask him, he will know, and he will take you there. b) If he does not know, then the place is probably not worth going to.  Also, he may suggest something better, in which case, go, take pictures and let me know! :-)  - c) if the place is near the shala just ask any student, they will point you in the right direction.  Enjoy the adventure.

Accommodations
Green Hotel is a beautiful and soft landing for the first couple of nights.  A bit pricey, but worth the night. They also serve fine food.

Anokhi Garden Bed and Breakfast - They have a few rooms and a beautiful studio, again, must reserve early.
Hotel Metropole.  Have not seen it yet, but I have heard good things about their food.  Aparently it is a bit high-end, mostly for business people, so it might be a bit more pricey, but nice.  It is a Rickshaw drive from the shala.

Hotel Paradise.  My friends were staying in this hotel for the first couple of nights so I got to see it.  I was not crazy about the food, but the hotel seemed to have a lot of room.  It did seem a bit pricey for what you were getting as the prices were similar to those of the Green Hotel, but the atmosphere did not compare at all. It is plain and basic.

Urban Oasis Hotel.  In Gokulam.  See here for pictures and prices.

Many students just walk around Gokulam and knock on doors.  Indian families are opening their doors to students more and more.  Prices have been going pretty high these days, especially in high season (December, January, February) when the shala is very full.

Also, take a look at louloulovesbooks's comment below, she has a room for rent when she is not in Mysore.


Transportation

Right by the shala there is a Rickshaw stand where you can find Seddu, one of the nicest and lively drivers around, he can take you to any of the places listed   Ph 9880417398.

Another rickshaw driver is Appu 9900302645.  For some reason they call him Papaya.  He is funny and sweet, can take you to the supermarket bank etc.

In general a short drive (say from the shala to Loyal World) would cost about 30 rupees.  Wait time is about 25 rupees per hour if you want a driver to wait for you while you shop.

Airport Pick Up
Krishna arranged car rides for me and James (as well as lots of other students) to and from Bangalore Airport in great cars, with seat belts and all (come of the8).  E-mail: tskittymurthy@yahoo.co.in - Price is Rupphias 2200 (as of 2012) each way.  If you get to go in a group, negotiate in advance to pay for the group, instead for each person.


Jeevand from Santosha (one of the cooks) also arranges rides to and from the airport.  Call to arrange, as of 2012 it costed R2500 per ride because it is a brand new and clean car.  +91 984 539 0597

Hand-Drawn Map of Gokulam

Here is a Mysore map -well, a Gokulam map- drawn by Globie, very useful!  (as of 2012). Globie is also offering as an e-book with a more comprehensive explanation as per this post, and for US$2.09, see here.

Banking/Money
The first thing you will probably need to do is get money so that you can pay the shala and rent etc.  The ATM by the shala used to work with american debit cards but it seems to have changed hands. Don't despair.


There are plenty of banks near the Loyal World supermarket that do work, for example: HDFC which is directly accross the street from Barista (the coffe shop).  Ask any rickshaw driver to take you, it is a 5 minute drive and they will wait for you.  As of 2012 I was charged 30 rupphia for the ride from the shala to it.

Food and Internet
Dosalicious. Mint dosas? Fusion Dosa? Fusion Idly? yes!, I know, I am also having trouble believing but it is true, check out the napper's post on it, with pictures and all!

Santosha, is about two blocks from the shala and serves brunch every day 8-12, closed on Saturdays.  Here is their website.  In 2012 it has changed owners again. Satva, who is looking after it this days is very sweet.  I loved the spinach bread with ghee.  They do share the ghee however, your toast will be dripping with it, so if you do not want so much ask for it on the side of your toast.

Sri Durga, or the "Stand Up Cafe", Indian breakfast and lunch.  The food comes out quickly (as in 15 seconds) and pretty much everything is tasty, the prices are very cheap, as in a full meal could be about 16 rupees.

Thne there is THE OTHER SRI DRUGA, and in my opinion better than the previous, it is right by the Nilgris supermarket on the main road of Gokulam, make a left on that corner and you will see them only steps away.  See here for pictures of their delicious food and to hear about how clean they are. A treat!

Anokhi Garden Bed and breakfast, has brunch every day except Monday and Tuesday.  On Saturdays it gets very crowded as many other places are closed so go early, other than that the food is very tasty.

Vivian's cafe, open for brunch every day except Saturday, they are on the main road parallel to the shala, so it is nice to just stroll in after practice.   Wireless is available.

Tina's Cafe is a favorite for many students, and is open 1 to 10 everyday except Sundays on the Gokulam Road.  She also offers breakfast at her home from 8-11 (not sure of dates yet) only to shala students.  Her home is located a few blocks from the shala, on the street of the Gokul Chats walking alongside the long park that starts right there, about two or three blocks, (no need to cross the avenue), it is her home after all, so you may need to do some detective work to find it. Exciting!

The Austrian Cafe, a bit of a walk as it is not precisely in Gokulam, they have burgers, chicken and tiramisu... certainly different.  You can find them near Loyal World (the supermarket). $$ - NEWS: today (January in 2012) James and I had lunch there and absolutely LOVED IT.  Clean, great cooking, the salad was just perfect, balanced and with a good dressing, washed with purified water.  The scrambled eggs with pasta also delish, highy recommended. See the pictures here.

Authana Restaurant.  A place I discovered in 2011, great dosas and Indian food in general, they follow the schedule of Indian restaurants where dinner is served at around 7 but during the day they have "snacks" which usually means Chinese noodles and dosa. - They deliver!

Anu And Ganesh Wi-fi food and smoothies [try the chocolate and banana one, my favorite!]. Great spot close to the shala. They serve lunch at 1 and drinks throughout the day.  It is a buffet and Anu (who is a great cook) prepares fresh meals. Great way to get your veggies in.  The seating area for food is upstairs.

Green Leaf is an Indian Restaurant located about 15 minutes walking distance from the Coconut stand.  We went at "snack" time, and so we only got chineese nodles and dosa but they have a very full menu for lunch and dinner.  Seems to have a reputation for being noisy, but the food was very good.

Rishi's Cafe is run by a group of Indian women. You can come in and they will serve you food between 1 and 7 every day, except Sundays.  They have amazing shakes, the food can be a bit plain. It is on the main Road, see the link for the exact address. They also have computers and wireless available.

The Chai place on Main Street, Amruth... is a must try! It could be a little intimidating as it is always filled with men who smoke, but fear not, women are welcome, and you will love it. Me thinks I may be a bit addicted to it.  Try not to drink it too late (not past 4:00 PM) as it might be hard to go to sleep afterwards and you may be tempted to snooze that early alarm clock.

The Gokul Chats has huge and amazing dosa until 11 AM and from 5 PM.  Not to be missed, it is the real Mysore food experience, and delicious.  They are on the KRS road close to Tina's newest location.

Sixth Main.  I have eaten lunch here once and really liked it, but they pretty much respect the 1-2:30 or so lunch and 6 to 7 or so dinner. They are near the Loyal World supermarket. They deliver.

The internationally famous COCONUT STAND.  This is it. Get your electrolytes for 10 rupees. [NEWS: JANUARY 17th 2012]  The police gathered around the stand this morning to take it down.  Kino MacGregor organized a little fund raiser and gathered over 400 dollars from students to help them with relocation and new purchases (a Vitamix!).  The new place ended up being right where it was, instead of a tree now they have plastic covering them and giving them shade, I understand they now also have their own t-shirts...  they are moving up in the world! God bless!

Barista, the Starbucks of Mysore, where you can find Indian locals smoking and playing chess, order a latte and have some sandwiches. It also has wireless.

RRR.  I have heard of this place but have not been there yet, Skippetty did go and wrote this about it: "Yesterday we went to RRR for yet more Thali. At this place, they lay out banana leaves as your plates and come and scoop up whatever dishes they've got onto your leaf-plate". You can read the full article and see the pictures towards the end of this post. Thank you Skippetty!

Pascucci - Thanks to Helena and LI Ashtangi for mentioning this place which is very Italian and has a huge variety of coffee, sandwiches and salads, they also have wi-fi. Check out pictures of their menu. Here is the location.

Hotel Mylari Seddu (the rickshaw driver mentioned a the top) took us to this place and I have to tell you it is an experience!, the dosas are fluffy and fried in butter, deish!, see the pictures in the link, and hear all about the chai, which was the best I have found in Mysore.  For directions I would rather just ask a trusty Rickshaw to take me but here is the address.  It is rather far... (20/25 minute drive)

Sandhya's House.  This is a special treat.  Sandhya's House is in the city and if you would like to have lunch with her you have to phone ahead and reserve a space (phone: 99012 67189).  They cook for as many people as they know are coming and it is highly recommended.  Kira sent me the info, thanks Kira!

Chakra House has moved again! as of 2012 they are in the old location (where they were in 2008), in the yellow building right by the chocolate man, and they are always open.  They serve breakfast lunch and dinner following the indian "timetable" of breakfast from 8, lunch at 1 PM and dinner at 7 PM.

High End Dining:
Oyster Bay  Seafood Restaurant is a paradise of silence, space, and fresh air.  About 10 minutes rickshaw drive from Gokulam. A nice experience. See pictures here.

Vegan raw smothies? you can call Carla at "Amla" 9948 603019. They are in Gokulam at Sant Rupthi 1176 3rd Stage, 8th Main Monday through Thursday from 2 PM, close to the Gokul chats.


Home Delivery of Meals

Ratna delivers food to your door. She has been feeding yogis in Mysore for over 4 years and uses quality oils and ingredients, including organic items when possible.  She has salads, soups, vegetable dishes, ragi dosas and other things and can customize to your need.  You need to call her one day in advance.  Phone: 974 101 9649

Private Internet (USB)
Cell-To-Cell.  You can get a a USB modem (30 G - 30 days free access) for 1700 Rupphia.  Nishith, who is at the store mentioned that in future years (this was as of 2012) it is likely that prices will go DOWN, which is not the general trend in Gokulam for anythin else... guess internet is getting more and more accessible these days.   After the first month you just go and renew. They are at 833 I Main Gokulam 3rd stage, but that is a mouthfull, is really a quick two block walk from the coconut stand.  The are on the road of the temple, perpendicular to the main road.


Supermarkets
Loyal World, a five minute ride in a Rickshaw, they have everything from electronics to food. Go there for your big shopping.

More. Used to be called "Fab City", but now has a new name, it is near the market (10 minute rickshaw drive) The place is huge, has like 4 floors, akin to the "Target" or "Tesco" of Mysore.  Whatever you may need, is there, except ear plugs, I have not found those anywhere.

Nilgris.  This is the supermarket of Gokulam, relatively small, but pretty solid.  They are on the main road, can't miss them.

The Three Sisters.  This is a place downtown where you need to call ahead and they will cook for you.  I enjoyed a meal at their place in 2008 and loved it.  They also offer ayurvedic massages!  I heard that a book of their recipes has been compiled and published too. Will try and find a link for them, or if you have one let me know.

The Coffee and Chocolate man.  You gotta love this man, he and his wife run a small shop near the shala and they really try to have everything.  I go to them as often as I can. Their coffee is grind-ed in front of your eyes and delicious.

Here he is (left) with the huge red grinding machine.


The Ayurvedic Oil Man
When I was here in 08 a friend asked Guruji for some good oils to alleviate pain, and he sent him straight to this store.  I have used his products and can attest he is the real thing.  He is used to students coming from the shala and will probably give you a mix of two oils to put before showering.  Nice. $

Coconut Oil Hair Massage:
Yes!, you can get this treatment for 140 Ruppias, and aparently it is delicious and leaves your hair soft and pretty, here is Martina's account, with pictures.  Phone Subbu at:2511799 They are in Gokulam. Thanks Martina for sharing.

Castor Oil and Ayurvedic Massages
Over at the realizing Mysore Blog there is a bunch of Ayurvedic Massage and Castor Oil suggestions, you can check it out here!

Judith mentioned in Facebook that she has purchased Castor Oil  on the main street Pharmacy, somewhere in between the coconut stand and Nilgris (the supermarket), on the same side of the street as the coconut stand.

That is if you are into having the castor oil bath by yourself, in the comfort of your own room.  See here for instructions and here for a conference in Which Sharath talks about it.

Special Treatments

Wheat Grass shots.  I met Sistashree who tells me she offers them between 9:30 and 12:00 pm, all you need to do is call at 99866-29634.  She is in the Gokulam area.

Ayurvedic Doctor.  Doctor Madhus was recommended to me by Helena.  He does traditional consultations on the science of Ayurveda. Can be reached at phone number +91 93 42 18 37 92

Alison recommended the Swastha Ayurveda Mysore...  she says you can get lovely ayurvedic massages and treatments there.  How to get there? Walk pass Anu's heading towards Contour Road then take a right on the street before the park. The are on the right.  They have Facebook as well.  Dr Subeesh was recommended by Alison.  Thank you!

Tailors, Arts and Crafts

Reliance Trends is a great store recommended to us by our landlort and lady, (pictures coming) next to the Regalis hotel has formal wear for men (i.e. if you wear formal button down shirts and pants this is the place to go).  The lenghts are off but they have tailors on sight that will shorten them to your measurements.  They also have t-shirts, sports wear etc.  For women they have beautiful indian clothes some of which can be used as westerner dresses.  Customer service is impecable.

Rashinkar - I usually visit them downtown and get tailored dresses with Indian fabrics, here is an example from one I had made in 2008.  They ship world wide, here is their web address. $$ - Picture right is one of Rashinkar tailors at work.  The tailor for female clothes is called Govinda, and he is really nice.

Krishna Tailor.  He is in Gokulam close to the shala and has pre-made pants and shirts.  He can also make things on demand, but they say he is a bit pricey. $$$

The Heritage - This is a house of handicrafts, they have amazing fabrics, jewelry, statues, carpets and more.  They ship world wide. theheritage2009@hotmail.com ph: 91 821 4244069.  #2928 1A B.N. Road, Mysore 570 001. $$$

Museum - Also a place of amazing quality fabrics, near the market. $$$ firdous29@yahoo.com
Ph: 9379671416 - #1A Hosabeedi 5th Cross. Opp. Mysore Zoo Indiranagar

Kauvery silk arts and crafts.  They tell me that all the artisans working here are representing the goverment of India which supposedly means good value and great work. See for yourself, some of the art work was indeed breath taking.

Hotel Mylari.  There I was thinking that the Gokul chats had the best dosa... but, Seddu, the Rickshaw driver who is in the know took me to the real place. See the link for the full story, they have amazing dosa, fluffy, buttery... nice

Sudha.  I was told about Sudha by Kira, in Facebook (thanks Kira!).  This is what she said about it... It is a place where you can buy shirts, dresses, yoga mats and  bags, it's on the same road as the shala going past the rickshar stand and the benches, up the road on the right hand side.  She has lovely stuff and the prices are reasonable.

Kira and Carla went to Pankaj Art Gallery and they mentioned they had beautiful bags and jewlery as well as crafts and lots of interesting things.  Click here for info and directions.

Bookstores
The Ramakrishna Ashram and Bookstore.  Amazing place, a must see, and right in Gokulam, read the Mysore napper as she tells you the 10 things she likes about it.

Sapna, means "dream" and is perhaps the most  "flashy" bookstore, a dream come true.  They have 3 floors and it looks a little like a Barnes and Nobles, minus the cafe.  I love their stationary island on the first floor and the amazing variety of mystic books and craft books.  The third floor is filled with text books.  Very interesting.  This is their website.

Rashinkar.  Yes they are the tailors but they also have a good selection of books both downtown and in the Rashinkar "Mansion" across the street from the Mysore Lion's school in Gokulam.

Ashok Books.  I did not get to this place on this trip, but it is fantastic (was there in 08), follow the link to see directions, it is actually quite close to Sapna.

Dentist
We found a great dentist, her name is Judith Pereira, and she is right next to Ganesh.  She was really nice, and offered very cheap services, for example, a root canal is 400 rupees.  I know! amazing!  -  She was trained in Germany and has a daughter in the US so is familiar with the western culture.

Astrologer
I have found that many people know of a different astrologer, some more expensive than others.  I found that this little place in Gokulam gave me exact predictions in 2008 and it only costed 500 rupees, they are next door to Santosha.  You may need to call them and sometimes wait a few minutes for the astrologer to come, but it is worth it.  A few thins to keep in mind though, a) their English is not very good and they tend to read your palm more than doing charts, guess that is why it is so inexpensive... and b) they will try to sell you coins at the end of the session, which you do not need to buy at all.

Chanting

The shala now offers free chanting after practice every day with Lakshimish.  What a blessing!  Make it a point to arrive on time.  As of 2012 the chanting is happening near noon (always check of course as things change) on Mon - Wed - Fri for new arrivals or people who do not know the chants.  For people who know Sanskrit pronounciation and the way the chants go, people who are more familiar with them, there is Tue-Thu-Sunday.  It is possible also to move up, from M-W-F to T-T-S once you know the right pronounciation.

The shala also has chanting, Yoga Sutras, and Sanskrit classes with Lakshimish in the afternoons.  You need to inquire with them for details. It costs about 700 Ruppias per month. (That was in 2011).

A student of M.A. Jayashree, named James holds kirtan, you can e-mail him to be included on his mailing list of upcoming events.  By donation.

There is also of course the Anantha Research Foundation, where the famous Dr. M.A. Narasimhan and M.A. Jayashree can be found teaching yoga sutra classes.  A treat.  I learned their links and contacts through David's blog, thanks David.

Painting Classes
Sri Chakra: If you feel like painting your own image of a God, any God, Shri Chakra of Mysore can help you do exactly that, see his gallery.  My friend Martina took his course to paint Visnu, and  check out her project here.  The cost depends on the size, detail, and amount of gold utilized.  Martina's Vishnu which you can see in the link to her project is 15,000 rupees, a smaller gayatri is 5000.

Sightseeing
The Mysore Palace lights up every Sunday night, make sure to be there a few minutes before 7 PM, then get to sleep for practice! :-)

Wineye Vinay is a shala student and also a tour guide in Mysore, this is his website.  He can take you to the Mysore that is local, hidden and off the beaten path. And  he is a yogi, how cool is that?

Chamundi Hill is a must see which I have not seen yet :-( the time will come. Here is a post by Skippetty with pictures of the hill and the swami's cave!

Jewlery
Silver Nest is the house of Meena, a very sweet Indian woman who makes incredible silver necklesses, toe rings and pendants with the shape of the Indian Gods... see for yourself by clicking on the link, I took pictures of as much as I could before Martina and I had to run back to conference. Enjoy!  oh, by the way, the take credit cards, AND they also rent rooms.  Did I mention they are one block from the shala?

Swiming Pool

The Regaalis Hotel used to be called "Souther Star" and is one of the swiming pools around.  Make sure to go by before 5 as, who knows why the arquitect did not think of this, but after 5 the sun is blocked by the building of the hotel!.  Anyway, they have great food and amazing cakes.  The swimming pool is lovely and you will see lots of yogis striking a pose or two, it just happens.

Lalhita Mahal Palace - the second largest palace in Mysore, also offers a swimming pool.  It is a bit of a drive, not as close as the hotel above (from the point of view of Gokulam) but worth the visit.

I believe in the comments someone mentioned the pool at the Mysore university, never been, if you go take pictures and I will link to you.

A Western Mall (?)
I know, hard to believe, but aparently a full Western Mall has opened next to the Zoo (no pun intended), as reported by the Mysore Napper.   Warning: It also comes with Western Prices!

Helping the Community (Giving Back)
There is an orphanage for abandoned babies and children in Gokulam, near Saraswathi's shala, to which you can bring food which they need.  Rice, cooking oil,  etc, see here for more info.

Reporting Abuse
A few of us have been molested (slightly) while in Gokulam, I hope this does not happen to you (and if you are careful it probably wont), but should you encounter this situation,  grab the license plate of the motorcycle or yell so that people further down the street can catch the guy, then dial the number 100 from any indian phone (borrow someone's cell phone is free), and report it to the police.  Let us all keep Gokulam safe!

For a full list of EMERGENCY and other useful phone numbers, see HERE, the list includes "snake catching", should you need it, we hope not.

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